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Keywords Dobby technology;Hyderabad;Pattubadi sari;weavers This project was divided into two phases—the first one was about bringing the market sensibilities to the weaver; the second one focused on bringing the weaver’s skills and sensibilities to the market. The primary requirement was a thorough exploration of existing loom systems and Dobby technology. The first phase involved a study of the market’s demands and a survey of the customers’ interests and identities. This evolved a language and scheme that best catered to the market’s trends, while utilising the weavers’ abilities to the maximum possible extent. The study focused on a Hyderabad market; city’s characteristics were studied in order to evolve a mood that reflected the city’s vibrancy. The prototypes for this collection were created along with the weavers from four villages: Pasalapudi in East Godavari district, Kaza and Pedana in Krishna district, and Chirala in Guntur District. They were members of the co-operative societies affiliated to Dastkar Andhra, as well as resident studio weavers in their Hyderabad based office. The second phase involved the study of existing systems of traditional weaving and the abilities of weavers, their rural sensibilities, usage of colours and motifs, and inspirations. These elements were to be used for creating a collection for the urban market that would have an essence of rural Andhra Pradesh; motifs and traditional inspirations of the Pattubadi sari were taken forward. A collection that was refreshing and suited rural aesthetic sensibilities was created. It was interesting to collaborate with the weavers and see their traditions as works of art that demanded great respect; for them work was not merely a laborious process and a means of earning a livelihood; it was certainly more than that. |
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