Jamdani textiles are an important and unique cultural tradition of West Bengal. Over time, Jamdani designs and colours have evolved, with the Nadia and Burdhaman districts being two significant production centres. Initially, the motifs were done on bleached and unbleached cotton. Later, colours were introduced through the use of dyed yarns. However, chemical dyes have replaced many of the natural dyes commonly used in the past, which has caused concern among traditionalists. Recently, artisans have used hand embroidery to mimic the Jamdani look instead of the traditional extra weft technique. While this trend is gaining popularity, traditionalists are against it, claiming that the practice destroys a tradition. The survival of Jamdani artisans has become complex, with many inconveniences, which is another reason why Jamdani faces the risk of extinction. Although many non-government organizations, designers, and fashion houses patronize the industry, the artisans still need help to survive. A good piece of Jamdani sari needs the sweat and labour of around two months, but the weavers are often deprived of fair wages and their share of profit as they need direct access to the market. Weavers no longer want the next generation to get involved in the profession that was once so proudly nurtured by their forefathers. Alongside for the sake of making Jamdani contemporary, its unique style of serrated motifs and layouts is being changed to straightforward outline child drawn kind of motifs. So, while the technique has continued to be practised, the simplicity brought in through these new designs must be revised. This will be detrimental in the long run. Therefore, to support and nurture the unique local textile tradition, Tantuja's mission is to strengthen the local style of Jamdani. By doing so, we can preserve the legacy of the Jamdani artisans and ensure that future generations.
